Eating Northern Italy Style


Welcome to another installment by my daughter, Rylie, about her recent trip to Italy with her Creative Writing classmates from college. If you missed Rylie’s first post about getting there from New York or her details and beautiful photography of Brunnenburg castle and Dorf Tirol, feel free to hop over to those articles. But be sure to return here for Rylie’s impressions of food in Northern Italy. As you can tell by the length of this article, she is definitely a fan of this subject. Enjoy!

Gardens at Disney Fort Wilderness

Gardens at Disney Fort Wilderness

First of all, thanks for your patience and understanding when my blog post didn’t appear last week. Our family was on vacation in Orlando, and we were so busy having fun my mom and I completely lost track of time!
Rather than going in chronological order of our excursion today, I’m going to write about an important part of Italian culture – food. I was a little nervous before my trip in regards to eating. I have many food intolerances, most of which would affected by Italian cuisine as far as I was aware. But the entire trip was a new experience, so I embraced the uncertainty and figured that even if I couldn’t eat everything, it wasn’t like I was going to starve.

And starve I most certainly did not. Lunch and dinner at Brunnenburg always began with a large self-serve arugula and mixed green salad, often with tomatoes, cucumbers, or dandelions sprinkled on top. Balsamic vinegar was the dressing of choice, with freshly baked wheat or white bread to dip in what vinegar was left over. The main courses took getting used to – my plate is generally divided into half meat, half grains, so the fist-sized chicken or steak portion next to a heaping pile of veggies and beans was a surprise.

But each meal during our stay at Brunnenburg Castle, painstakingly and lovingly cooked by Brigeeta, tasted divine, and I often found myself leaning back in my chair after strawberry shortcake or tiramisu desserts with my stomach pressed uncomfortably against my jeans.
At Brunnenburg, I didn’t have to worry about my poor German or Italian, as Mary’s family speaks English quite well.

Pasta at Hotel Restaurant

Pasta at Hotel Restaurant

On the other hand, the language barrier was an often embarrassing obstacle in the restaurants of Dorf Tirol. I escaped the task of translating a menu the first night since our professors were able to show us where the “American” choices were on the pizzeria menu; I ordered a margherita pizza, the hives I was sure to get from the tomatoes well worth the relative ease of filling my appetite with a familiar meal.

Wine and Grappa

Wine and Grappa

I wasn’t as lucky the second night. Eleven of us ended up at one of the Hotel Restaurants in town with only an Italian-to-English translation guidebook for assistance. The book turned out to be useless, as the menu was almost entirely written in German. We spent an hour and a half downing wine (or, in some cases, sipping cautiously at grappa, distilled wine that smells exactly like Absolut vodka) and asking our waiter, Ivan, about every item on the menu. Thoroughly impressed by Ivan’s patience and helpfulness – he translated the entire menu for us, twice – my friend and I ended up returning there two more evenings. Ivan not only remembered us, but our specific food preferences as well.

The biggest difficulty at Hotel Restaurant, once I understood the menu, was convincing Ivan and other the waiters that what I was ordering was what I actually wanted. Substituting “wine acid” (vinegar) for tomato sauce is apparently unheard of in Italy. But once that obstacle was overcome, the turkey (chicken was oddly absent from most menus) and pasta dishes I chose were decadent. The turkey was grilled to a golden brown and tasted exactly like chicken, making this chicken lover very happy, and the pasta was al dente. Perfection.

As for desserts, Schokoladenkuchen (chocolate cake) and Apfelstrudel mit Eis (apple strudel with ice cream) were by far the best desserts, and the Italian gelato was, of course, delicious. Sadly, I didn’t get around to trying the large gelato fruit sundaes, but it’s on my list of sweets to select when I one day return to Italy.
Before leaving Dorf Tirol, I had to try the one food the town is known for –Spargel. Spargel is a German white asparagus that, with my limited knowledge of vegetables for comparison, tasted most like an overly thick, fibrous string of half cooked spaghetti. The Spargel itself had little flavor other than butter, but it was featured in numerous dishes – at one restuarant, two full pages were dedicated to the vegetable!

Crab and Octopus In Venetian Market

Crab and Octopus In Venetian Market

I had just gotten the hang of reading German menus when it was time to pack up and leave our dorms at Brunnenburg behind, taking the three-hour bus ride south to spend a few days in Venice. Spargel, and vegetables in general, were sparse in Venice, where seafood was the dominating selection. Ever since having an allergic reaction to shrimp, I’ve avoided most seafood, but my class happily embraced the more familiar cuisine. Frittura di pesce (fried mixed fish, usually shrimp and scallops) seemed to be the most popular among my classmates, though black-inked cuttlefish was also tried, and I even tried a bite of rubbery salted octopus.

Venetian Pizza

Venetian Pizza

Dorf Tirol, a town more German than Italian, understandably didn’t make phenomenal pizza, so I was looking forward to sampling a real Venetian slice. Perhaps we didn’t find the right eatery locales or I’m just ridiculously spoiled by our Long Island pizza, but I wasn’t too impressed with the thin crusts and unblackened cheese. Still, eating pizza in Italy was something I can cross off the bucket list. Happily, the rich hot chocolate I discovered in a back-alley pizzeria more than made up for my disappointment with the pizza.

Another surprise in Italy was the shortage of ketchup. I hadn’t really noticed its absence while at Brunnenburg, but my first two meals in Venice were chicken cutlet and brie cheese sandwiches. I asked the waiter for the condiment and he scrounged up two ketchup packets for me.

Gelato was a sweet staple in Venice. Everywhere we went, there was another tiny shop boasting dozens of flavors, from ananas (pineapple) to lampone (raspberry) to nocciola cioccolato (chocolate hazelnut – Italians are pretty enamored with their Nutella). As per my usual hesitant style, I stuck to basics like stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate shavings) and menta (mint chocolate), though I also enjoyed arancia rossa (blood orange). The servers rarely spoke English, and I often found myself answering accidentally in German, but every flavor gelato had a picture of the fruit or food it was based on underneath the label.

Biergarten
Alcohol, as I mentioned above, was also a main element at every Italian meal. I’m a fan of white wine, so the complimentary aperitif of Prosecco in Dorf Tirol’s restaurants was an unexpected delight, Already legal drinking age in the states, I didn’t feel compelled to spend my Euros on liquor and wine like many of my classmates taking advantage of the lower drinking age, but I did enjoy several Forst beers in Dorf Tirol and in the Venetian pubs we visited a few evenings after dinner.

Forst Beer and MineralVasser

Forst Beer and MineralVasser

Now it’s your turn. What’s the craziest or best-tasting food you’ve ever tried?

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12 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Jill Weatherholt
    Jul 02, 2013 @ 08:10:18

    Great job, Rylie! Your descriptions of the meals made me hungry! I loved the photos you shared. What a great experience for you. Like yourself, I have many food intolerances, so I’m not very experimental. During a trip to Venezuela, I ordered, what I thought was lobster, but it was gray and slimy. After a tiny bite, I confirmed it indeed wasn’t lobster. Unfortunately, my Spanish wasn’t good enough to understand what exactly it was. Needless to say, I went hungry that evening. 🙂 Thanks for taking the time to share your trip with us Rylie!

  2. Rylie Barnett
    Jul 02, 2013 @ 13:20:14

    Thanks for stopping by again, Jill! I’m sorry to hear about your lobster mishap, but kudos for trying it. 😀 I was hesistant trying foods I recognized – I don’t even want to think about what you ordered could possibly have been!

  3. Donna Coe-Velleman
    Jul 02, 2013 @ 13:33:02

    What a variety of flavors! Yum! I’d probably be much happier with the selections in Dorf Tirol because I don’t really like seafood.

    mmmm Gelato something I haven’t but definitely want to try.
    Thanks for bringing all this to us.

    • Rylie Barnett
      Jul 02, 2013 @ 20:50:36

      Hi Donna! As a non-seafood eater, there was definitely a greater selection of dishes for me in Dorf Tirol, but the ones I did find in Venice were incredible. 🙂 Gelato was amazing – definitely an experience to add to your to-do list!

  4. Rhonda Hopkins
    Jul 03, 2013 @ 18:43:58

    Wow! What a great experience! And all the food pics and descriptions definitely made me hungry. Safe travels, Rylie!

    • Rylie Barnett
      Jul 04, 2013 @ 11:01:06

      Thank you, Rhonda! Happy 4th to you and your family, as well as everyone else reading this! 🙂

  5. Catie Rhodes
    Jul 04, 2013 @ 16:30:12

    Loved reading this. It was like my once in a lifetime visit to Italy. One thing I’ve heard Americans who visit Europe talk about is the smaller portion sizes. I found it interesting that you didn’t mention that.

    • Rylie Barnett
      Jul 04, 2013 @ 17:39:04

      Thanks, Catie, I’m glad you enjoyed it!

      I did notice the difference in portion sizes at first, but I’m normally the girl bringing home a giant box of leftovers, so it was actually a pleasant surprise to be able to finish my entire bowl of pasta. Also, in Dorf Tirol, having smaller portions wasn’t that big of a deal, because we ended up going out for gelato after dinner. But I also noticed that, surprisingly, some of the restaurants (usually the smaller, less ‘touristy’ places) actually served larger portions. You can’t really tell from the picture, but the personal pizzas were enormous, both in Dorf Tirol and in Venice. My friend ordered trout at a place in Dorf Tirol expecting to get a filet or two; she ended up with the entire fish on a giant platter, scales and head included. I think it really just depended on what type of dish you were ordering. Then again, I did only visit two places, so my experience with getting a pretty even balance between smaller and larger portions probably wouldn’t apply once I branched out to other European cities – though I would love to personally test that theory! 😀

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